Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Apple iPhone 5 Front-Facing Camera – How to replace the frond camera – Mobiles and smartphone Repair and service

Category: Mobiles and Smartphones Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to remove the case 
  • How to remove Front panel 
  • How to replace the Camera  

Apple iPhone 5

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.
Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.
If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.
The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 ,its recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. 
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.
Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.
Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.
Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.
Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.
Be sure to disconnect the battery first before proceeding with the repair as not doing so can sometimes cause the phone to run hot and/or have issues with touch sensitivity.
Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.
Lift the front panel assembly slowly up to about 90 degrees from the rear case.
Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.
Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
User note: To ensure correct installation, make sure you clip the small hooks of the
bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:
Front-facing camera and sensor cable
LCD cable
Digitizer cable
When reassembling your phone, The LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Remove two screws securing the front-facing camera bracket to the display assembly.
One 4.1 mm Phillips screw
One 2.2 mm Phillips screw
There is a small, black plastic spacer underneath the metal bracket at the upper screw. The upper screw goes through the metal bracket then through this plastic spacer.

 Remove the earpiece speaker bracket from the display assembly.
 Starting under the earpiece speaker contacts, use a plastic opening tool or the tip of a
spudger to pry the front facing camera cable out of the display assembly. Caution: Removing the earpiece speaker contacts can cause them to tear. Use extreme caution when peeling the contacts up.
Remove the front-facing camera and rear microphone assembly.
If you are installing a new part, your new part may have two tabs with holes in it used for manufacturing purposes. These tabs can be cut off with scissors.
There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.
If replacing the proximity sensor or camera make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor an use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

Lenovo laptop - Lenovo N581 – How to check the battery pack - How to test the battery Charger – How to remove the Keyboard – How to replace the battery – Laptop repair and service

Category: Laptop repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to test the charger
  • How to remove the keyboard
  • How to check the battery pack  

Lenovo N500 

How to verify the symptoms 
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack.
3. Connect the AC adapter.
4. Make sure that power is supplied when you turn on the computer.
5. Turn off the computer.
6. Disconnect the AC adapter and install the charged battery pack.
7. Make sure that the battery pack supplies power when you turn on the computer.
If you suspect a power problem, see the appropriate one of the following power
supply checkouts:
“Checking the AC adapter”
“Checking operational charging”
“Checking the battery pack”
Checking the AC adapter
You are here because the computer fails only when the AC adapter is used.
 If the power-on indicator does not turn on, check the power cord of the AC adapter for correct continuity and installation.
To check the AC adapter, follow the steps below:
1. Unplug the AC adapter cable from the computer.
2. Measure the output voltage at the plug of the AC adapter cable. See the following figure:
Note: Output voltage for the AC adapter pin No. 2 may differ from the one you are servicing.
3. If the voltage is not correct, replace the AC adapter.
4. If the voltage is acceptable, do the following:
Replace the system board.
Note: Noise from the AC adapter does not always indicate a defect.
Checking operational charging
To check whether the battery charges properly during operation, use a discharged battery pack or a battery pack that has less than 50% of the total power remaining when installed in the computer.
Perform operational charging. If the battery status indicator or icon does not light on, remove the battery pack and let it return to room temperature. Reinstall the battery pack. If the charge indicator or icon is still off, replace the battery pack.
If the charge indicator still does not light on, replace the system board. Then reinstall the battery pack. If it is still not charged, go to the next section.
Checking the battery pack
Battery charging does not start until the Power Meter shows that less than 95% of the total power remains; under this condition the battery pack can charge to 100% of its capacity. This protects the battery pack from being overcharged or from having a shortened life.
To check your battery, move your cursor to the Power Meter icon in the icon tray of the Windows taskbar and wait for a moment (but do not click it), and the percentage of battery power remaining is displayed. To get detailed information about the battery, double-click the Power Meter icon.
Note: If the battery pack becomes hot, it may not be able to be charged. Remove it from the computer and leave it at room temperature for a while. After it cools down, reinstall and recharge it.
To check the battery pack, follow the steps below:
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack and measure the voltage between battery terminals
1 (+) and 7 (-). See the following figure:
3. If battery output voltage is less than +3.9V DC, the battery is damaged, replace it. If battery output voltage is less than +9V DC, perhaps the battery has entered into over discharge protection mode, pre-charge the battery with AC, please replace the battery if battery capacity can not be charged over 0% within 2 hours.
4. If the battery output voltage is more than +9V DC, measure the resistance between battery terminals 5 and 7. The resistance should be 4 to 30 KΩ. If the resistance is not correct, replace the battery pack. If the resistance is correct, check the system board function.
Battery pack
Unlock the manual battery latch 1. Holding the spring-loaded battery latch in the unlocked position 2 , remove the battery pack in the direction shown by the arrow 3 .
Remove the three screws 1.
Loosen the keyboard with fingers in the direction shown by arrows 2.
Lift the keyboard a little 3 , and then detach the connector in the direction shown by arrows 4,5 .

How to replace the speaker – Apple MacBook Air 13 – Laptop repair and service

Category: Laptop Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to remove the bottom cover 
  • How to disassemble battery 
  • How to replace the speaker 

Apple MacBook Air 13 

Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case and set it aside.
Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.
Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws
When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Pry up from beneath the wires.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

Landice L-Series treadmill – Diagnostics system over view – Troubleshooting – Running Belt adjustment – Led functions – treadmill repair and service

Landice L-Series

2 - UP/DOWN/START Toggles 12% and 15% elevation selection
3 - MENU/START Accesses Diagnostic Mode and Open Loop Speed Mode.
NOTE: There is now a display for total miles and total hours for commercial ET’s only.
1 - PAUSE/START Displays software version.
3 - MANUAL/START Accesses Diagnostic Mode
DISPLAY UP/START Accesses Diagnostic Mode
4 - UP/DOWN/START Toggles 12% and 15% elevation selection.
5 - FAST/START Open Loop Speed Mode.
1 - PAUSE/START Displays software version.
3 - DISPLAY UP/START Accesses Diagnostic Mode.
4 - FAST/START Open Loop Speed Mode.
1 - PAUSE/START Displays software version.
3 - UP/DOWN/START Toggles 12% and 15% elevation selection
4 - DISPLAY/START Accesses Diagnostic Mode.
5 - FAST/START Open Loop Speed Mode.
1 - PAUSE/START Displays software version.
4 - DISPLAY/START Accesses Diagnostic Mode.
5 - FAST/START Open Loop Speed Mode.
1 - UP/PAUSE Displays software version.
2 - DOWN/PAUSE Reboots.
3 - SLOW/PAUSE Accesses Diagnostic Mode.
4 - FAST/PAUSE Accesses Speed and Grade diagnostics.
(Transformer) This transformer converts AC power to DC power. It provides low voltage current for the Upper Display Board. This component is found on treadmills with PWM Motor Control Boards. It is incorporated into the SCR Motor Control Boards.
Stores energy to smooth out voltage to Drive Motor. Used with SCR Motor Control Boards.
CHOKE (Inductor)
Acts like a filter to smooth out voltage to Drive Motor. Used with SCR Motor Control Boards.
Wooden board 1” thick with a phenolic coating. Treadbelt rides over it. Reversible.
This connects Drive Motor to Sheave (Pulley) on Drive Roller.
Provides power to Drive Belt to turn Pulley on Drive Roller to move Treadbelt. This gets its power from the PWM or SCR. Landice Drive motors are either 110v for 220v.
This is the Roller at the front of the Treadmill. The Sheave (pulley) is pressed onto the roller and allows transfer of movement from Drive Belt to Treadbelt.
Connects to Elevation Motor to allow movement of front of treadmill up or down.
This motor works through the elevation leg assembly to raise or lower the front of the treadmill. It gets its power from the Relay Board on Home models and from the SCR on LTD and Club models.
Attaches to Elevation Motor and gives feedback to Upper Display as to what incline the treadmill is at. Needs to be calibrated whenever elevation motor is replaced. A Potentiometer should be checked whenever there is a problem with elevation or when Error Code PO comes up.
This overlay is found on our Sports Trainer, Pro Sports Trainer, and CRT models and is screwed onto the Upper Display Board.
One on either side, these connect with the Deck Slats and Motor Pan to form the frame of the machine.
These sit on top of the Frame Rails and keep Deck in place. They also form the base for the Traction Strip.
The IR Pot is located on the PWM Motor Control Board and is used to adjust the time it takes the PWM to react to a load or amperage spike. It normally requires adjustment if the motor feels like its surging.
This takes information from the display membrane keys and transmits it to Upper Display Board via the ribbon cable. It is found on the PT, CT, and ET models.
PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)
Motor Control Boards- Used mostly in home models but occasionally in commercial units. This circuit board is designed to run the drive motor. It takes the AC voltage from the wall outlet and changes it to DC voltage to run the drive motor. The AC voltage comes in on the L1 line and L2 line terminals on the PWM where it’s rectified (change from AC to DC) and comes out as DC on terminals A+ and A- (Armature + and Armature -). Since the PWM motor control switches at such a high frequency, the DC voltage produced is “clean” and relatively free of electrical noise or static. In other words, it needs no external Capacitor or Choke (Inductor) to run the drive motor. It receives its commands from the Upper Display Board via the Relay Board. Generally these need the voltage coming out of the outlet to be + or – 8 % of the PWM rating. For example a 115v PWM should have outlet voltage of at least 106v with a maximum of 124v.
This circuit board controls the elevation relays, belt relays, DC transformer (for Upper Display Power), and diagnostic lights. It is only found on mills with PWM Motor Control Boards.
This is a safety feature that completes a switch in the Display Board . If it is not connected the treadmill will not run.
SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier)
Motor Control Boards-Used in LTD (110v) and Club Models (220v) This circuit board is designed to run the drive motor, elevation relays, the belt relay, DC transformer for power to Upper Display Board, and on board diagnostic lights. The SCR requires a Capacitor and Choke to provide “clean” power to the Drive Motor. It receives its commands from the Upper Display Board and eliminates the need for a Relay Board. These require outlet voltage of + or – 10% of the SCR rating.
Recommended Treadbelt lubricant for Landice Commercial Treadmills
Landice uses a magnetic speed sensor to receive accurate speed readings. Readings are taken directly from the flywheel on the motor and sent to the Relay Board or SCR. Distance between the sensor and the flywheel is critical but the sensor is unaffected by dirt or dust build-up (unlike optical sensors).
This is the Roller at the rear of the treadmill. It completes the loop for Treadbelt movement and allows tracking and tension adjustment of Treadbelt.
This is the surface the user walks on. It rides over the deck and rollers.
This controls information from the Membrane panel and Face Plate. It then transmits it to the relay board on Home models and the SCR on Club or LTD models.
One on either side, they house the wire harness, the upper display, the cross member and the handrails.
Transmits data from lower electronics to upper electronics.
Shock-absorbing Deck. Consists of wood Deck, VFX Deck Post, Deck Spacer, Deck Load Washer, Deck Felt Washer, and Deck Impact Absorber.
Symptom: Treadbelt feels like it’s slipping or grabbing when walked on.
Possible Cause: Loose drive belt or treadbelt. Adjust as per manual. Remember to adjust only till slipping stops. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
Possible Cause: Worn treadbelt and/or deck. If treadbelt or deck is worn it will cause excessive friction and the user will feel like belt is slipping or grabbing.
1. Reach hand under front of treadbelt and see if deck feels rough, grooved, or if you see bare wood. These are signs the belt needs to replaced and the deck needs to be reversed or replaced if it has already been reversed.
2. Compare the outer edge of the treadbelt to the middle of the treadbelt. The outer edge wears less since the user walks near the center of the belt. You will be able to see the cross weave of fabric on a good treadbelt. This cross weave design traps air inside tiny pockets. The treadbelt glides on this trapped air. When a belt wears, the cross weave becomes flat and smooth. This is not good because there are no more pockets to catch the air. If the center of the treadbelt is smooth (glazed) and exhibits black streaks it’s time to replace.
3. If amp draw is high (8 amps or more on home) it is advisable to check belt and deck for wear.
Tip: If Red Current Lamp is lit then Amp Draw is high.
Symptom: Treadmill slows down when user steps onto treadbelt.
Possible Cause: Worn out treadbelt or deck.
Possible Cause: Worn or defective motor brushes and/or scorched commutator on drive motor.
Dress out commutator and replace brushes.
Possible Cause: Demagnetized stator magnets on drive motor.
Make sure that treadmill is unplugged! Disconnect drive motor from lower circuit board. Hold the two motor wires, Black A+ and White A-, together and rotate the motor flywheel by hand. Get a good feel for the rotational friction of the drive motor. Then disconnect the two motor wires and rotate the drive motor by hand. If the drive motor begins to spin much easier, then your motor is not the problem. If you notice no difference, then replace the drive motor. NOTE: A good drive motor will spin freely with little friction when disconnected from the lower circuit board. If the two motor wires are connected together, the drive motor will become much harder to rotate.
Symptom: Treadbelt is moving diagonally.
If a belt is moving diagonally on the treadmill it can be corrected with the following steps:
1. Loosen the take up roller (both sides)
2. Take off the motor cover.
3. Loosen the drive roller adjustment bolt on the right side (opposite the sheave pulley).
4. Using a large screw driver or pry bar move the drive roller forward if the belt is angled right to left or backward if its angled left to right.
5. Tighten drive roller until star washer bites into aluminum frame, start treadmill, and adjust tracking. If belt is straight then put on motor cover. If belt is still not straight, go to #6.
6. If there is improvement and there is still room to move drive roller adjustment bolt, continue to adjust until fixed.
7. If there is no more adjustment on right side adjustment bolt, go to left side adjustment bolt ( make sure to loosen the drive belt via the drive belt tension adjustment bolt and re-tension when done).
Landice has adjustment on the front roller to correct for this type of problem. The front roller will not be damaged by the adjustment providing these steps are followed.
Symptom: Treadmill speed is erratic and/or surges.
Possible Cause: Defective drive motor
Possible Cause: Loose drive belt or treadbelt.
Check for proper drive belt and treadbelt tension. If one of these belts are not tight enough, they will slip and create a treadbelt skip or surge. This will usually be more apparent with heavier users.
Possible Cause: High drive motor current due to excessive treadbelt friction.
Check for treadbelt and tread deck for wear. Check that Red Lamp marked Current is not on.
Possible Cause: Worn or defective motor brushes and /or commutator.
Check Motor brushes move freely in holder. Brushes should be at least ¼ inch long, approximately the same length, and free of cracks, splits, and fraying.
Possible Cause: Line voltage surging.
Use voltmeter, monitor line voltage supply. Make sure customer has the treadmill plugged into a circuit that meets our electrical requirements. (Home & LTD Treadmills = 120V / 20 amp dedicated circuit), (Club Treadmills = 220V / 15 amp dedicated circuit)
NO extension cord should exceed 6 feet in length and must be 12Awg, same as linecord.
NO surge suppressors or GFI outlets.
Possible Cause: (PWM boards ONLY Home Mills) IR potentiometer out of adjustment.
Adjust the IR “pot” on the lower motor control board until the surge subsides.
The RELAY board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED’s are color coded according to their specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should always be ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates a treadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:
AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage is delivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWR LED.
VDC (green) – The VDC LED will light when it receives DC voltage from the DC power supply.
DN & UP (yellow) – The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays are functioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending high voltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.
UPSW (green) – This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display board to the elevation UP relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
DNSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display board to the elevation DOWN relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
BELTSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display board to the belt (motor start) relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
SPD (yellow) – The SPD LED flashes on and off (relative to speed) when the speed sensor is operating properly.
PWM (yellow) – This LED will light when the upper board is sending a speed signal to the PWM. Both the PWM LED and BELTSW LED must be lit for belt movement.

Monday, May 30, 2016

Asus ZenFone 2 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the vibrator motor – How to remove the antenna – mobiles and smartphone Repair and service

Category: Mobiles and Smartphones repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to remove the case 
  • How to remove the vibrator motor
  • How to remove the antenna 

Asus ZenFone 2

Use your fingernail to gently pry off the phone's back cover at the indicated location. While
your fingernail is under the back cover slide your finger around the edges of the phone until the cover pops off.

Remove the thirteen black screws and the single silver screw from the back of the phone with a JIS size 00 screwdriver.
The black screws are 2.8 mm in length
The silver screw is 5.5 mm in length
The black screw located next to the camera and the flash is covered by a sticker. This screw can be easily removed as if there were no sticker on top of it, the point of the
screwdriver should be able to pierce through the sticker easily
Use a plastic opening tool (or the prying tool of your choice) to remove the inner phone backing.
The parts of the inner backing held down by two strips of double sided tape can be easily loosened by inserting the plastic opening tool underneath it and gently lifting it up.
Take the speaker out of the back of the phone. It should come out easily as soon as the inner back is removed because nothing is holding it down in place anymore.
Vibration Motor
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the vibration motor.
Use a plastic opening tool to unplug the vibration motor at the indicated location.
Take the speaker out of the back of the phone. It should come out easily as soon as the inner back is removed because nothing is holding it down in place anymore.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up both ends of the antenna. The antenna connections can be easily bent out of shape. Be sure to lift from underneath the cable as shown.